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Monday, July 13, 2009
Home Again
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Friday, July 10, 2009
Faces
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I think it is the faces that mean the most to me. Your face, the face of strangers, the faces of my church family. I see Him in each one of these photos. The smile of the old woman, the coy glance of the young girl, the old man with the coke bottle glasses. Then, there is this aging, fat, white guy. Where did those bags come from under the eyes? What is he looking at -- is it the future? Why so much gray in the beard?
In the mountains, the Gujjar say that a person's life story is written in their face. I hope my face tells a story that is pleasing to God, and that will lift up others. The team tells me that I have the gift of teaching and encouragement; I will embrace that thought.
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As I look at these Gujjar people, and said good-bye to the men this morning (they have all left for their villages and family), I am hoping that they remember my face. I trust that I have given them all something to keep. I am hoping that it is the power of knowledge, the wisdom of compassion, and the understanding that we all serve the same God. I am aware that is a very large request for a short-term trip like this, but my prayer is that I will remain faithful with what God has given me.
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These people don't need us. They have been doing fine for many generations. What they need is to empower themselves with knowledge that enables them to provide for themselves. I can say that I have been to the mountain top, and seen over the other side (literally)!! I can't, and won't say this is the last mountain that I will climb. There is much more work to do, and I will embrace that when it comes.
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We talk about life-changing experiences. This has been a huge chapter in my life, along with many others. The team here has challenged me to be more spiritual, to be more focused on what God desires for me to do, and I have challenged them to listen to Him as they proceed on their journey. We have all gained from the experience.
The next time I post, I hope to be at my dining room table. It will take me a total of 17 1/2 hours flight time to get home. Who knows how long that will be in airports!! I would ask for your prayers for safe travel, and I hope to greet you in your homes soon, 'Inshallah' (God willing). You have all blessed Nan & I by your support. I hope my mom & dad are proud of me. .. .. .. .. ..
BLN
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Relationships
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As I drifted along, my thoughts turned to the relationships that have been built these past weeks. Relationships with the men have been wonderful. We had a good wrap-up with them yesterday, and they asked many probing and insightful questions. Titus was not with us, and it seemed that they were more free to ask delicate questions about animal reproduction that they might not have otherwise asked. I sense a trust and mutual respect that is very healthy. I have had my opportunity to share with how God has worked in my life to bring me to this point in my life. I have given them the cards that demonstrated who was supporting me at home, and those who had supported me financially to be able to come. I feel certain that
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they are aware that my being here was a team effort and as a result of prayer, and not because I just wanted to come and see. All the photos are very self-explanatory. The old
Finally, there is the photo of the biggest smile that I have ever seen when I gave away a ball cap. Simple gestures, random acts of kindness, a smile, a touch -- they all make a difference. I am also thinking about how God wants me to use this experience in my own life, as I improve my relationship with Him.
This is to be a packing day. There is a general strike, so most shops and other bazaar/village activity is closed down. Frankly, I am looking forward to clearing my living space and getting back to Virginia. I have had the right amount of time here, but my work is done. I will post again this evening. I fly tomorrow and the next day. More later..... BLN
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
The culture, and having fun
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In the midst of this sort of everyday fact, I will always remember the animals. Dr Phil Sponenberg, my favorite vet teacher, mentor,
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I also haven't forgotten to have fun.! I don't remember what was said in the last photo, in fact, I think they were making fun of me for something that I said. No matter, the Gujjar will laugh along, even if they don't know the joke. I have been strikingly surprised that I could get NO children to sing for a video, Lee Lee. If there is music, it is some quiet humming, but I have not seen a single musical instrument on the mountain, or in the homes. The gentleman in green is Gulzar, the Gujjar man who hears and speaks the best English. He can read Urdu, but he cannot write!! He is very bright, and a tremendous asset to his village. As a boy, he came to these mountains with his family's livestock, and through a twist of fate, met Titus and began teaching him the language, then on to full-time employment. The possibilities for this effort is endless. CVM is already planning to send another team this fall to help out, and I am communicating with the leadership on how to prepare them. Hopefully, they will bring another blessing to this part of the world. What was especially uplifting to me, was to hear these Muslim men pray to God for Ute, for her healing and well being. So, here we are, 2 men praying in English, 4 men praying in Urdu, all praying to the same God. It really isn't rocket science here folks. HE listens if our prayers are genuine, and my prayer is for this group to see the Truth! More tomorrow. BLN
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Class Day #2, Cont.
The office is inside a walled compound, which is very common around most homes, or cluster of homes in this village. The wall is to keep the bad guys out. Titus has a dog that he lets loose at dark, and he does a great deal of night-time barking, often right in front of my open window. This gives me a bit of security, but also disturbs one's sleep. I will look forward to a hot shower, a cup of coffee in the AM, and a full night's rest.
Ladies, you will notice the JenAire stove/oven combo in the next photo. This is the mud cook stove that I mentioned before. Once cured, it is so sturdy that you can stand on it! It gets warm and heats the tent, as well as providing a 2 burner stove. This woman was very demure when I asked who had built it, (indicating that she had) and she agreed to allow a photo to be taken, but at the last second, she diverted her eyes as they often do. I did not want to dishonor her and ask for a 2nd photo
I must tell you about the dogs. (Note the custom made dog house). This dog was a bad one. They let him off leash during the night after everyone goes into their house/tent. He is to keep away the bears, and to keep the sheep/goats from straying. A dog that damages the livestock, or a dog who runs from predators somehow disappears (you get the picture). They are just not useful in this culture, and I did not see children playing with any dog other than a few puppies. We dewormed this one after I demonstrated the 'hold by the chain, lift the front legs off the ground, two hands behind the ears and hang on' (take 'em to the ground if you must -- and I did!) technique that Jenny C. is so good at!(EVERYONE was scared of him!) I knew I was going to get bit, but he attacked the deworming gun instead. He had more Albendazole ON him than IN him, but I am sure he got enough! Pretty exciting.... After the first one, the men then wanted to try my restraint technique on some pretty calm ones, which worked out quite well.
This last photo is of permanent summer houses that this same family has been visiting for generations. Notice the beautiful evergreen trees to the side. We are at over 7,000', and the air is crisp and the scenery magnificent. There is running water from snow melt nearby. This was by far my most favorite and the most beautiful campsite that I had seen. The sides of these houses are built of logs and mud, the roof is logs with sod put on top. As with the house in the foreground, when the roof collapses, they will recycle the materials and build another hut. I remind you that this area gets 8-10' of snow per winter, so the load is pretty intense
The dog is already barking in the compound (LTS --she likes me, and the videos have been WELL received by Titus and the kids). I had the coolest thing happen this evening. Michael and I went for a walk toward the forest behind the village, and just at dusk, 3 jackals came sprinting out of the forest into the open and came up close! I tried a photo, and I am not sure yet if I captured an image or not. They seemed reddish, like a red fox, about the height of a coyote, but like most things in these parts, they were VERY thin, and VERY fast. I guess they didn't like my non-cologne, because as soon as they saw us, they were jetting on back into the forest.
We had a good 4 hour training session this afternoon with the men, and we will schedule another 4 hours in the morning. I had asked for time to go shopping before my stay here is over, and that is scheduled for tomorrow afternoon. I am not yet sure about Thursday's schedule, but I will be spending most of Friday packing and preparing to leave early Saturday morning. Has it been nearly 2 1/2 weeks already? I am certainly glad to have come for 3 weeks, because 2 weeks would not have been enough time. More tomorrow. BLN
Class day #2
Tuesday evening, 7:00PM. 4 hour class today with the men plus 2 others who are interested in animal husbandry, going over the various medicines again, how we used them and why. A review is also in order. These fellas would never make it using my vet truck.. I set up the box time and again in a fairly neat and orderly way (ya think?) and they go crashing through everything, throwing it back in any way they can, sort of like a recently graduated veterinarian!! Sooo, what I thought I would do, is require that I fill the box, then they would do a complete inventory of all meds and supplies, then re-inventory it after we had made a hiking trip. That way, they would know how much or what they had used, and we can keep track of what to re-order, etc. They thought that was a really good idea, after trying for 1/2 hour to understand why that was necessary. The goal here is for the Gujjar men (at least some of them) to become businessmen, and after describing to them that they could work and earn nothing, or worse, end up owing someone money after all their hard work, they started to understand a bit about capitalism and making a living.
Sometimes, though, you just have to take a break where you can. This old guy was probably going on 65 years of age, but he walked up that hill without even breaking a sweat, leading the horses while we rode. Enlarge the photo and check out his beard. It is common for the older men with the longer beards to dye with Henna, which is the red color. These folks squat on their haunches all the time, and rarely sit. If they do sit, they are cross-legged. Well, my knees won't allow me to do much of either, so I look pretty awkward in their lodgings when I visit.
The children have been a highlight. No matter where we go, whether it is in the valley, or high in the mountains, there is always a smile. The adults don't usually smile until you greet them with 'Salaam a likum', which means 'Hello, my friend'. Then, they will smile and greet you. The family bond is amazing, in the mountain or in the villages. It is common for extended families to share campsites as I have previously noted, but it is also common for families to share houses in the village. One family might have it's own room for sleeping, but share a common cooking area. When I asked how many people were in this one village, I was told approx 100 hearths, which means that number should be multiplied by 4-6 because a hearth is just a cooking area.
Finally, you will notice the fine ceramic tile in the bathroom in my suite. The 'loo' is a very simple structure. Guys, you face one way for a certain function, then face the other way for another. Ladies, it is pretty simple for you to figure out which way you face. The good news is that you never have to worry if the lid is up or down!! I will be getting supper, then coming back for another, later post. The internet and the modem is acting up, so I will post this now, and hope to post again in several hours. 'Tika' for reading. BLN
Sometimes, though, you just have to take a break where you can. This old guy was probably going on 65 years of age, but he walked up that hill without even breaking a sweat, leading the horses while we rode. Enlarge the photo and check out his beard. It is common for the older men with the longer beards to dye with Henna, which is the red color. These folks squat on their haunches all the time, and rarely sit. If they do sit, they are cross-legged. Well, my knees won't allow me to do much of either, so I look pretty awkward in their lodgings when I visit.
Monday, July 6, 2009
Afterthoughts/photos
Monday night, and I am just checking your replys. I couldn't help but send some more photos. #1 is mainstreet Sonamag, with the restaurant
, beside the general store, beside the open air butcher shop, with garbage collection going on as we watch. In this part of the world, someone likely does own the cow and it is not someone's reincarnated grandmother. The Muslim own and use them, and since pasture is so cheap, & garbage is free -- well, go figure!
Is that alot of volts?? It is common for folks to get electrocuted while trying to tap into open lines and steal electricity!
Skeet, this photo is for you. The chicken is a very important product in this part of the world and so is eggs. We often have hard boiled eggs for breakfast. One morning I had an omelet, which was a deep fried cracked, fresh egg, fried in butter. Yummy!
The only 'water' buffalo that I have seen. There were 3 of them at this camp, at 6,200'. They tend to look for the wet places to lay -- this also happens to be where the women wash clothes and dishes! All rightly, then ..... More tomorrow. BLN
Skeet, this photo is for you. The chicken is a very important product in this part of the world and so is eggs. We often have hard boiled eggs for breakfast. One morning I had an omelet, which was a deep fried cracked, fresh egg, fried in butter. Yummy!
The only 'water' buffalo that I have seen. There were 3 of them at this camp, at 6,200'. They tend to look for the wet places to lay -- this also happens to be where the women wash clothes and dishes! All rightly, then ..... More tomorrow. BLN
Monday evening, 7:00PM. It is probably early AM for you. The first photo is the 'office' in Brane-Nishat where I have a room in a side building that was formerly the 1st wife's quarters. It is common for Muslem men to illegally take a 2nd wife, then have her somewhere nearby.
The man and his 2nd wife left for holiday and the 1st wife took over the property and now the pai group rents it. The grounds are well kept by a groundskeeper who gets paid US $2.00/day. He tends the plants and
reseeds the flowers which are beautiful! There are many new birds here. The Myna is common, the English Sparrow must be all over the world, there are Kites which are a type of hawk, and vultures that are pretty awesome looking. It is said that if you start a fire anywhere, they will come circling. It is Hindi custom to cremate their dead and the vultures like to be near the funeral pyre (sp?) for clean-up. I am told that you can find body parts laying in your yard at any time! Titus Gall is my host. He is Danish and speaks many languages. The Gujjar language is Urdu, but there are many languages here in Northern India, depending on your tribe. All of the locals, even the indigent, speak at least 3 languages -- and I struggle with English!! Titus has been in country for 15 years, owns an engineering firm that develops earthquake resistant shelters, and feels strongly about God's calling to work with these people. He is driven to seek God's will in his life, and he walks the walk. Europeans and English are automatically given a measure of respect here, and since he is 6'8" tall, he stands out! His wife Kathy is one of the few women who drives a vehicle here, and she generates lots of stares. There is a significant support staff for his work. There is a contact in New Delhi, and an a nurse/book keeper at the office. I am writing from the office when I blog in. We tried to set up the computer so that I could send remote from my room, but there were too many technicalities and firewalls in my laptop, and I wasn't about to disturb any of that (you are welcome Rachael). My international Verizon cell phone has
been junk, so the Skype has finally worked well. (thanks Matt) There are volunteers here often, some that come to stay for an extended stay. Titus has been not so subtle in his efforts to recruit me to stay or come back for a MUCH longer stay. I will leave that kind of decision up to God, and currently I haven't received that calling. I do however, feel like my skills have been used effectively, and that the balance of this week will be given over to working with the men, teaching and mentoring. Lee Lee, they have all been to some sort of primary school, several to secondary school, and all can understand English and speak the language, although some of them still struggle. No matter, we can communicate quite well. They are quick to pitch in, and since they are paid, I have no problems with allowing them to carry the gear! The little girl in the next photo was herding the goats. You will notice a patch on her forehead to ward off evil spirits. Well LBS, that is where my foot bandage went! This is a very superstitious group, and in spite of how well you think you are making headway, generations of family teaching don't leave overnight. The background is this; I had treated one of those goats for footrot the previous week (foot rot is an infection between the claws). I had placed a wad of cotton soaked in bleach between the claws and fashioned a bandage out of duct tape that I had brought along. None of the men had ever seen such a thing! I also gave Sulfa drugs orally (thanks for the applicators, Dr. Dan), trimmed to hoof, and left medicine for follow-up treatment. when I came back a week later, the goat was fine, the bandage had disappeared, but my guess is that the rest of that tape is somewhere in camp!! I just HAD to have this photo. Strong JuJu, that duct tape!! Having said that life is tough and superstition is rampant, the men still seem to want to trust. They shake hands with a firm grip and they won't shake with someone they don't trust. I have seen them walk up to someone as if they were going to shake, then drop their hand and spit at their neighbor's feet as an insult. The ultimate insult is to pick a booger and literally flick it at your neighbor, then turn your back on him and walk away. I also noticed the women shaking hands, and male family members often hug. I have seen father's and mother's both hug their children, but I have seen very little affection between men and women.
I was bold enough to ask one of the boy's this question -- since there are often 2-3 generations in camp, often in the same tent, how do young couples find quiet/personal time. At first I didn't think he was going to ask me, and even through his dark skin I could seen him blushing. He simply said "They often take a walk to look at the stars!" The weather has been nice today, and I am over my case of the 'Delhi Belly' -- vomiting & diarrhea from 2 days ago. I must have eaten something rotton, and besides, Titus noted that visitors didn't get the full experience without at least one attack of the 'loose motion'. Well, trust me, I have now had the full experience and I would have been better off throwing the Lomotil over my shoulder during that 24 hr seige.
There will be a class tomorrow for the boys, so I need to spend time on my lesson plan. The nurse/book keeper now has a virus and I visited her today to give advise. They didn't tell me that I would be doing MD work too, Mixon. More tomorrow. BLN
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There will be a class tomorrow for the boys, so I need to spend time on my lesson plan. The nurse/book keeper now has a virus and I visited her today to give advise. They didn't tell me that I would be doing MD work too, Mixon. More tomorrow. BLN
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Down Time
Monday, 9:30 AM. I got to sleep until I woke up, which is like a vacation day for me. I prepared fried potatoes/onions and scrambled some eggs. NO red pepper or chilli pepper!! This is an off day to catch up. I will be planning some lessons for the men who return to work tomorrow. Did someone say that the children are the same, no matter where they go?? They wear plastic shoes, no socks and can walk these steep hills like billie goats. English slip and slide and they giggle when they see this fat guy. Other than the rich Hindu's, I am the biggest thing in town(weight wise!). The bread that the little one on the right is eating is typical for tea when we are being invited into their home. Only after the guests are given Chi and fed do they take the left overs! This is a typical photo of a couple in the mountain families. The gentleman went with us the day we tried to go onto the 2nd highest highway in this part of the country. (We were trying to connect with part of his extended family.) The road was built by the army for strategic purposes (read about the Kargil war in 2002-2003), and passes across the mountain to a village where some of his cousins spend the summer. We didn't make it past 15,500' because of snow banks and avalanche. But we did see some of his people along the road, and dewormed a number of goats along the way. At one point during the day, when it was raining, he wanted to borrow my 'cap'. He immediately put it on backwards like any other redneck and took off over the hill. At the end of the day, I gave it to him, after much protesting that he should not take such a fine gift!
I am constantly struck by the smells. It is a privilege to be invited into the homes, but it is a very striking odor -- sort of a combination of a wet burlap sack, a burned out building, and rancid butter. The people seem
Did I mention that I was collecting souvineers.??
The final photo is especially for Dr Dan Woodworth. (Would someone make sure he sees this??). Dr. Dan has been going to Central America for years to make sure the prople there have clean water (sounds familiar!). He has a true missionary spirit and has been a close friend and advisor since I first came to Waynesboro, some 22 years ago. He is a mentor in the truest sense, and challenged me to do, teach, observe. He calls this the 'Budda' stance, when the teacher no longer needs to be involved, demonstrating that you have taught the locals the skills needed to carry on after you leave. This is a very powerful feeling. It is no different than teaching a farmer, a new intern, or brand spanking new veterinarian. When they finally 'get it', it's pretty sweet. Yes, much will be left undone, and there is already plans for the next CVM individual or team who arrives. Many thanks to all who have posted comments on this site. I am specifically encouraged to see them. The power just went off (again), but we have battery back up for the computers, but I don't want to chance it. More later today. Make mine a double, Mixon! BLN
5 days in the thin air
have not yet reported anyone to the authorities. Currently, in Kashmir, we would be asked to leave if the thought was that we were there to evangelize. I did meet several men on the mountain who are believers, and I will post their photos in subsequent entries. Brian, Cindy & Grace -- the children seem to have lots to play with. They are often dirty, but smiling and not terribly shy. They play with sticks, and old bottles, and I have seen wire fashioned into a steering wheel, attached to a longer shaft like the steering column, with a can at the bottom for them to push along -- very inventive. I am also happy to report that my 1st patient that was put on IV fluids has recovered and is nearly ready for resuming his work activities.!! I would be in jail in the US for the services that I proveded!!
I have done far more horse work than I had imagined. A common complaint is that the horse is 'weak', when actually he is malnourished and heavily parasitized. Saddle sores are the next most common complaint. Paige, I know it is sad, but they don't think they are doing something wrong -- instead they believe it is the animals fault that his back is sore! I have heard time and again that this happens every year! I have seen some of the
saddle blankets that have an area cut out over the point of the withers, where even with heavy riders and heavy loads, there is no friction. Titus and I have discussed having some of the men's wives build these during the winter to sell during the tourist season as another source of family income. Many of the horses also have a sharp spine, as a result of breeding. Add this to no body fat and the situation is ripe for bruising. There is lots of infection surrounding these sore areas and some of these horses are little buggers. I helped the boys build the first rope twitch that they have ever seen, and I couldn't get Ajas to lay his down. I think he was taking it to bed with him at night!! The next most common problem is front leg injuries where these wicked little shoes/nails strike the front legs on the inside and gash them open. The Gujjar all want a 'shot' of Penicillin (they pronounce it Peni-cil-ean) of Terramycin ointment (pronounced Terra-my-seen). Weak horses are often given only Calcium under the skin? (I have never given Calcium to a horse.) These just need forage and a good dewormer!
The food has been pretty spicey, and no matter where you go, you are invited in for 'Chi' and often flour bread, called 'chopate' (I think that is how it is spelled). It has been raining in the valleys -- stop and go showers with the temperature plunging each time it rains. I have always slept warm, but sometimes it is really cold when I get up at night to go admire the stars (for that night-time pressure relief, Brummy). It was cold when we got back to the office last evening, but it is going to warm up again this week. I will go on to bed now, and post again tomorrow. I spoke to Nancy Lee on Skype this evening, and I hope that Hammy is feeling better. Rice and beans for supper this PM. Everything has red chili in it and is spicey -- I am ready for some beef! More tomorrow.
Saturday, July 4, 2009
5 day camping trip
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